Archive for August, 2009

On Julie and Julia

Saturday, August 15th, 2009

JulieJulia

I am writing this from Menlo Park, CA, where my big sister Ashley is frantically shilling fava beans, icing mini cupcakes, wrapping a wheel of brie in puffed pastry, and in general running around like a crazy bride-to-be prepping for a foodie party to end all parties.

Naturally, as one who rules my own roost, I am feeling a little out-of-sorts. For much as I like to pretend that I am the one who is interested in all things food, someone who will travel all around Salem to put together decent meal for those I love, Ashley is the real queen of the kitchen.

Also, I have no idea where she keeps her vegetable oil.

Take, for example, the meal she had prepared for me when I arrived last Thursday night: Coq a vin with mashed potatoes, which I happily devoured at 11:30 p.m. while sitting on her couch watching Jon Stewart. In our family, you don’t show up without hunger. And in our family, you don’t have anyone arrive at your house without having some kind of slow-cooked meat and vegetable dish simmering on the stove.

Obviously, we were going to see Jule & Julia together. It is the kind of movie that touches our lives on a dozen different levels, most importantly, in the gut. We just didn’t realize we would see it together with a 500-person theater packed so tight we only found seats in the second row.

Is Julie Powell the world’s first blogger to get  her life turned into a movie? I really don’t know, but I can say for sure that I hope it never happens to me (make no mistake — I harbor no delusions that a publishing executive in New York City will read my place-based mini-essays on Salem, Oregon and think: High concept book and film project that capitalizes on the foodie craze!).

For a film that has so many charms, so many moments of sheer delight, and so much sexy looking food,  Julie & Julia left me feeling a little bit more in love with Julia Child and far less in love with the idea of being a blogger.

By the way… on our car ride to the airport, my husband and I had our requisite taking-separate-flights-if-our-planes-go-down talk.

My last words: “Please oh lord if I die do not let the paper publish an obit about me and say I was a blogger. Sure, say I blogged, but please call me a writer instead!”

His last words: “I hope you make good use of the life insurance policy.”

So, on to Julie & Julia: a film about a government worker who has terrible friends and a saintly husband and whose only respite from her disappointment with herself can be found in the kitchen. She sets out to make all 524 recipes in Julia Child’s cooking Bible Mastering the Art of French Cooking, to do it in 365 days, and to write about it in a blog called The Julie & Julia Project.

Go see it. It’s pretty great. So why did it leave such a bad taste in my mouth?

I can pinpoint the moment in the film when Julie Powell’s character lost most of my empathy (spoiler alert!). It wasn’t when she let her new found popularity in the blogosphere go to her head. It wasn’t when said big head caused a rift in her marriage to an obviously swell and supporting dude.

My a-ha moment occurred finally at the celebratory dinner she held near the film’s end. Julie has finally completed all 524 recipes in Julia Child’s Mastering the Art of French Cooking and is serving a de-boned duck to a group of friends on a Queens rooftop when she lifts her glass and toasts her husband for supporting her along the way. But instead of coming up with something new to say, she says to him exactly the same words Julia Child’s husband once said in a toast to her.

What… she’s a writer and she can’t even come up with her own toast?

Now,  this is likely as much an error in Nora Ephron’s otherwise ebullient screenplay, but it got me thinking. Julie & Julia, the book upon which the movie is based, is essentially structured around a device. It leans on an already established celebrity presence — you could say it humanizes a celebrity crush by exploring the way people mythologize celebrities they will never meet as a way to get through the day. And looking back through the film, there are several hints that would remind us that Julie leans very heavily on Julia — perhaps a little too heavily. The Julie & Julia Project was a perfectly timed cultural force — celebrity crush, foodie obsession, blogging before everyone had a blog. But despite Amy Adams’s charms, Julie Powell comes across as practically histrionic, slightly pathetic and unoriginal.

What would Julie be without Julia?

Well, I can tell you the movie really would have sucked. I sure am glad my blog isn’t based on a celebrity that is far more interesting and lovable than I.

Gotta go — those fava beans are waiting…

The Adam's Rib Challenge

Wednesday, August 12th, 2009

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The challenge: Eat a 2-lb. burger with six slices of cheese, and an entire salad on top, sandwiched between a 2-lb. burger bun, and smothered with four serving’s worth of fries, within one hour, at Adam’s Rib Smokehouse.

The contenders:

ADAM – a 180-lb., 6’2″ hunka of burning man meat, with hands faster than Doc Holliday and an esophagus that waits for nothing. He does it all while maintaining excellent oral hygiene. Jeff’s twin brother.
Home: Salem, OR.
Stats: Can down dinner in four bites.
Lore: Once ate an entire pork tenderloin by himself at a friend’s BBQ.
AKA: The Mighty Masticator

JEFF: a 180-lb., 6’2.5″ hunka burning dude flesh, with hands so precise his rib drippings look like art. His stomach is often bigger than his eyes, and he’s got a digestive tract that can handle the hautest of cuisines as well as the hash of the developing world. Adam’s twin brother.
Home: Ames, IA (formerly of Panama)
Stats: His plate to your plate ratio is one to one half
Lore: Has taken home gold in similar burger contests
AKA: The “Loco”vore.

The Spoils: World domination, everlasting glory, the admiration of peers and wives, the awe of other diners

or

a free burger and a stomach ache.

Who will persist in the Adam’s Rib challenge? Will it be Salemite Adam, who has cut back on meat and who hasn’t had to compete with his brothers for food for at least a decade? Or will it be Jeff, who has spent the past two years living in a small mountain village in Panama, who lost some weight in the process, and who has taken down lesser eaters in the past? Will the world’s foremost expert on Competitive Eating and the Big Fat American Dream, Jason Fagone, turn up to comment on the event? Who will win this challenge, and more importantly, who will survive?

Tune in during the next two weeks to find out…

The Politics of Stuff

Tuesday, August 11th, 2009

Summer 09 Stuff REV.indd

Before we moved to Salem, we moved our entire household, sans cats, into a 10 x 10 x 10 storage facility in Ames, IA, pulled the door closed, locked it up, and hit the road.

Our stuff sat there getting chewed on my rats for six months while we figured out what we were going to do with our lives and where those lives might be lived.

Adam dealt better with departing from our things that I did. For one, he has always harbored a deep distrust of material possessions and makes daily attempts to limit accumulation (often imposing this little quirk on me — who says a girl is allowed only one shampoo bottle, one conditioner, and one bar of soap in the shower caddy?).

The initial liberation I felt at letting go of my things quickly changed into a depression of the dispossessed. While I also try to limit how much I accumulate — I’ve thrown out half my life three times moving back and forth between the United States and Germany — I have discovered how important it is for me to be able to make my own meals, sit in my own reading chair, and gaze admiringly upon my own tchockes. When temperatures dropped and I realized I left my favorite sweatshirt in storage, I felt truly lost.

But like all great tragedies, my attitude towards my stuff was about to go through a real transformation.

The Oregon Council for the Humanities gets this. The council just sent out the latest issue of its quarterly magazine Oregon Humanities, and it’s a real doozy — a serious and fascinating look at the politics of stuff.

The first thing you might notice is that the issue’s cover image includes a precious hand-drawn image of a product called  “Emily’s Birthday Beers.” It also contains some deep, long-form explorations of the meaning of stuff in American society, including:

Our Disenchantment with Stuff
The Physicality of Consumption
Why People Collect Stuff
Hoarding
Praise for Materialists (for good balance)

Needless to say, this issue – free to you! just send them an email! – is probably the most widely accessible themed nonfiction magazine I have ever come across.

It struck me as particularly timely since I have spent the period of our country’s recession moving house, keeping house, losing house, and finding house — and all the stuff that comes with said home.

Within three months of putting our stuff in storage, I forgot what I owned. Not that I forgot my possessions temporarily, I actually forgot that many of my possessions even existed.

Within four months, I stopped worrying that a tornado might sweep through Iowa and wipe out the storage facility.

Within five months, I started wondering if we shouldn’t just sell it all and become world travelers.

Well, that didn’t happen. Instead, within six months, we moved to Salem in the middle of a snow storm, got jobs, and started paying down our now Staypuff Marshmellow Man-sized student loans.

When our stuff finally arrived from Iowa via some really shady movers, it was more than enough Christmas for us both. Bedspreads and tape dispensers and bendable Kermit the Frog plush toys! Files and wall art and a ceramic Francis of Assisi!  And most fondly, spices, utensils, yogurt makers, spaghetti bowls, beloved coffee cups, and twenty boxes of books.

Losing our stuff and getting it back half a year later reminded us that we love what we have — we just don’t need much more of it.

Won't You Feed My Neighbor

Monday, August 10th, 2009

Microhood

We had our first-ever neighborhood jam in the microhood last weekend. Families from seven homes brought burgers, chips, cakes, cookies, beer, wine, and a whole lotta good will to hang out for five hours and listen to Adam rock out on the guitar.

microhood:  n. 1). the handful of houses surrounding yours that don’t have perpetual garage sales on their lawns and whose inhabitants smile and wave when you see them. 2). a community of good neighbors

Since I was bringing guests, I felt like I had to step up and provide more than the requisite one dish to share.

So I brought along three summer season, locally-inspired dishes perfect for serving to the crowd.

1. Gazpacho. Or as the kids called it, a big bowl of salsa.

Gazpacho

This gazpacho included six tomatoes, one green pepper and two onions, one purple pepper from the Salem Saturday Market, and two yellow heirloom tomatoes from my garden.  I served it with a stack of custard cups — it’s intended as a cold soup — but the group seemed more inclined to dip tortilla chips in it.

WARNING: Beware of double dippers when your chip vs. salsa ratio is so whack.

2. Fennel, mache and parmesan salad. I’ve been thumbing through blogger Molly Wizenberg’s new book A Homemade Life, which is based on her wildly popular food blog Orangette and have worked up a couple of versions of her favorite family recipes. This salad, made simply of fennel shards layered with parmesan flakes, salt, pepper, lemon juice, and olive oil, is a knockout.

Fennel
To make this, I used fennel from the Salem Saturday Market, beefed up a bit with mache from the bearded dude who sells the eggs there (La Terra Vita), parmesan from Trader Joe’s, and lemon from, well, I don’t know… California?

Adam’s been wanting a Meyer lemon tree, but he hasn’t picked one up yet.

3. Blueberry crumble.

Crumble
Blueberries hand-picked from Sunnyview Farms Blueberries, picked last Monday, peaches picked from my neighbor’s tree that morning (shake it!),  and a streusel crumble on top. We served this with the amazing Umpqua 150th Anniversary of Oregon ice cream, which you can pick up at Roth’s.

The gold-label ice cream has flavors of roasted hazelnuts, clover honey, and huckleberry syrup.

Screw fences. Good food makes good neighbors.

Feeding the Beast — in Portland

Thursday, August 6th, 2009

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Adam and I have been eating out less for the past few months – in part because my pregnancy cravings and complete inability to anticipate the size of my actual hunger have made cooking at home more pragmatic, in part to save money for the best Christmas present ever (baby boy!), and in part because we had plans to convert months of parsimony into a major wedding anniversary feast.

We staged that feast at Portland’s Beast.

Tucked into a neighborhood street of the city’s Alberta Arts District, Beast is a stylish, sexy affair staffed by the most gorgeous waitstaff I’ve seen in ages (nearly all women, all of them turn-your-head hot, all dressed in demure but well-cut trendy Portland garb, all of them serious about food).

To be fair, Beast is not the best venue for a romantic evening. The space on 30th Street NE is sized like a bistro but outfitted to accommodate as many as 30 guests at two large, banquet-sized tables.

We joined about 14 other people in five groups at a longer table, some of them fellow anniversary celebrants, some family get-togethers, one girls’ night out, and one infectiously adorable couple who brought along their 18-month-old daughter for a six course, prixe fixe dinner costing $50 a head (she clearly ate before the event).

Beast serves clever, artfully-designed send-ups of American and French fare. Its staff assembles the dishes, all made with fresh, local ingredients (the lettuce was from a farm two miles away!) on a high prep table that takes up roughly one third of the dining room.

All that color and beauty can be a little distracting. Luckily, I was faced away from the prep table, where the ladies were meticulously arranging hazelnuts and sprinkling chanterelles for the nearly three-hour service.

1. Soup. The meal began with what became my favorite moment, a chilled Armenian cucumber and yogurt soup with Dungeness crab and trout roe. Crisp and clean, slightly tangy chilled broth set against the sweetness of the crab — it was the perfect first taste in last week’s 95 degree weather (pic above).

It was followed by:

2. Charcuterie Plate. Pork liver, sour cherry and pistachio pate, chicken liver mousse, pickled shallot, steak tartar and quail egg toast, and a melt-in-your-mouth foie-gras bon-bon with sauterne gelee.  Say what you will about foie gras – I’m pretty disgusted by how it is produced – I allow myself an occasional liver product that sends my eyes rolling back into my head.

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Citrus sorbet. A palate-cleansing, pared-down show-stopper of grapefruit and orange sorbet.

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3. Entree. Seared Sonoma Farms duck breast with toy-box tomatoes, watermelon and Padron salsa, romano beans and duck demi glace. Beast sets off the duck with a surprising summer salad that mixed watermelons and jalepenos and topped it with a parsley, mint and macerated shallot chutney (macerated: that’s soaked overnight in vinegar to us).

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4. Salad. Gathering Together summer greens, marinated summer chanterelles, fresh corn and fromage blanc. The greens were from a farm in Philomath, the chanterelles from Oregon. I’m a salad snob and prefer my meaty chanterelles cooked a bit in butter or oil, so this one was the low-point of the courses.

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5. Cheese Plate. Lucky Adam. My life has gotten worse since I got pregnant and learned I have to give up unpasteurized cheeses, such as these, from Steve’s Cheese in Portland. Adam’s life has clearly gotten better, since he regularly gets my share.

Beast serves the cheese course with candied hazelnuts, a green fig drizzled with local honey, and homemade thyme and fleur de sel shortbreads.

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6. Dessert. Now, my German host mother Sabine always used to say that “Käse schliesst den Magen!” (Cheese closes the stomach!). Having spent much time in France herself, she is accustomed to a post-dinner cheese course to seal the deal. I had no cheese at all last Saturday night (wah wah wah), so I found it simple task to tackle Beast’s finale, a peach and summer berry trifle with lemon sponge cake and vanilla bean whipped cream.

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See that little monkey in the back? That’s the little girl whose parents brought her along for this ride. If you can believe it, she sat quietly and played by herself with toys from her mother’s grab-bag of wonders the whole three hours without making more than a peep while he parents cooed and talked to her in Arabic and Japanese, their native languages.

Nearly a week after we got fed by the Beast, I am still amazed, not just by the food, the attentive service, the overall sexiness of meat, and the lingering memories of a meal well had, but by this little being, who has given me hope that my restaurant adventures won’t be over in five months.

Then again, I’m having a little dude.

August Salem Monthly is out, Top Tweeps update

Wednesday, August 5th, 2009

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The August issue of Salem Monthly is out! That means that publisher A.P. Walther has biked the issues all around town and you are likely to find one at many downtown locations and some strange ones. During my first trip to Breitenbush Hot Springs, I actually found one at a townie diner in Detroit, OR.

Yes, the influence of the monthly just keeps spreading.

I think it has much to do with new editor Eric Howald, who took up the paper’s first-ever full-time editor-in-chief position last February. Since Eric took the helm, the writing has gotten better, the stories have gotten juicier, and the whole paper has taken on the kind of alt-weekly feel that I’ve always yearned to be a part of.

In the new issue you will find such glimmering highlights as:

  • A story on Salem’s Top Tweeps — When I posted about the top Tweep story last weekend, the online version hadn’t yet included the list of other 9 top Salemites frittering their days away on Twitter (count me among them). You can read the rest of the feature by downloading the PDF at the end of the article.
  • But the real drama going on is in the comments section of a story about the Roxxy’s move into Lefty’s Space on State Street –  a piece that appeared on February 1, 2009.  The comments section has become one of my favorite places in the world, a complaint section, a receptacle of dirty laundry, a seedy digital stomping ground where the real, unofficial story of the Roxxy is being played out in barbs of a few sentences. Prostitution! Lines of Coke! And the only thing I’ve been able to verify myself — HORRENDOUS SERVICE!

I’m heading downtown to pick up my copy today. Say what you will about the wastefulness of print. I’m kind of thrilled of the idea of someone out there using my Tweety birdy story to line the bottom of their birdcage.

Typecast Salem

Tuesday, August 4th, 2009

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My quest to prove that Salem has a literary culture — and not just a scrap-booking culture — continues this month with my Salem Monthly profile of retired printer Lee Schrunk, called “Playing with Type.”

Schrunk entertains groups of people — mostly students — in his basement museum of early 19th century antique letterpress equipment and products.  Lately, he has seen an upswing in interest in his privately-funded hobby museum, so much so that he believes that a “minor letterpress renaissance” is afoot.

I’m not really surprised.

If you’ve ever had the chance to make your own documents using letterpress, something I did one lucky day last spring while at the University of Iowa, you know of the thrill of setting type — the minute attention to detail, the challenge of designing a document before setting the type, the exultation of pressing ink to paper, the sheer ecstasy of pulling a fresh print off the press.

We MS Word processors have clearly lost something in the process of printing words, even if we gained speed and efficiency.

Also, as computers and automation have stripped our lives of some of the more authentic connections we have to physical work, younger people have clearly been seeking out opportunities to do actual hand-crafted work, however outmoded or time-intensive it may seem. The exploding interest in letterpress is simply an outgrowth of that trend.

The above image shows Mr. Schrunk holding the largest piece of type he owns, the letter “E,” most-used letter in the alphabet.  (Incidentally, Ernest Vincent Wright once famously wrote a novel, Gadsby: Champion of Youth, which omitted the letter “e” entirely. Cheap trick).

Here is Mr. Schrunk displaying a facsimile of a page from the Gutenberg Bible, a project he is doing with some visual arts students at Chemeketa Community College.

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Mr. Schrunk’s whole house looked like this — deep, dark reds, a celebration of old stuff that can still be used. If I hadn’t been visiting him with my own purpose I might have spent hours exploring his collections.

Weeks after I visited him,  in the trendy Belmont district of Portland, I ran across a jewelry store that was selling individual pieces of type at 50 cents a pop. Man, do I love it when someone’s personal treasure, accumulated out of sheer obsession over decades and at a price that can only be imagined, enters the spotlight of popular commerce.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gadsby_(novel)

The State Hospital Murals

Sunday, August 2nd, 2009

SH1

Am I the only person with an unrelenting fascination for the Oregon State Hospital? Am I the only person who walks past it and imagines stories taking place behind its crumbling facade?

This month’s column for Salem Monthly is all about another Salem secret: Who created the murals that were revealed to the public by the recent demolition of one part of the hospital’s J-Building. I am hoping the column might inspire someone very, very old to come forth and tell the story of these murals. I have spent much too much time trying to track down that information myself.

So for now, some pics:

The East Mural, viewable from Center Street NE

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Man, that mural is ripped.

The West Mural, also viewable from Center Street NE:

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Desperately Tweeting Salem

Saturday, August 1st, 2009

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My husband came home last night to find, as he often does, something suspicious on my computer screen.

This time, it was my open TweetDeck, the tool that makes sending and viewing tweets on the micro-blogging site Twitter easier.

He scrolled through the recent tweets, he clicked on a couple of the “mentions” — the tweets that have come from conversations I have been having and from other tweeters mentioning me — and he had an epiphany.

“I don’t know any of these people you’re writing to!”

“I don’t know them either!” I said.

That’s been the beauty of Twitter. Except for a former college friend, who went on to write the world’s best book on competetive eating, I don’t really know the roughly 200 people who follow my tweets and the 200 people that I follow. Unlike my facebook friends, all of whom I have met in person, Twitter is my place to mingle in the madding crowd. And though I admit to being a reluctant Tweeter at the get-go, I have grown to see the massive opportunity it represents for me, my work and my life.

Here are a few examples:

1. Story ideas. If you’re a journalist, you can’t not be on Twitter, where many of the stories are happening. This month, you might want to read my Salem Monthly cover story on Salem’s Top Tweeps, my first-ever Twitter-based story.  Tweep #1 himself is Rob McGuire, a local IT guru. I’d like to give special thanks to editor Eric Howald and his team, who were inspired to frame the story in the style of a 1970s-era Audobon Field Guide.  Brilliant!

Sadly, the Salem Monthly site has not yet posted the rest of the feature, which includes nine other interesting people whom you have never in your life heard of (again, beauty of Twitter).  But until it gets posted, you can always pick up a paper copy. Your best bet is the Coffeehouse Cafe downtown, but you can find them pretty much at all the independently-minded businesses and organizations, the Beanery, Kim Huong’s, the Public Library, etc).

If you don’t see one, it’s because our publisher actually bikes them around town all by himself. That can take time.

2. Troubleshooting. I have found my new WordPress Fairy through Twitter. I have a reader of this blog who is meeting with me next week to discuss ways I can develop this site. I’m kind of a mediocre techie, and while I can go so far with pics and print — my kind of stuff — playing around with the possibilities of WordPress is pretty daunting for me. Bibbity bobbity boo!

3. Self-promotion. I post all of the links to my blog posts on Twitter; and yes, people actually click on them. Amazing!

4. Shopping tips. When you’re in a new place and you can’t always call my friend Jan, Twitter is great for finding the goods. I recently posted a request for an art framery in Salem and my Tweeps responded in kind. This item goes along with:

5. The overall goodness of the world. Good people! Helping you out! Without agenda! If anything Twitter makes me feel like the world is a wonderful place. My Twitter stories are slowly replacing 30 years of customer service nightmares in my mind.

6. The power of individuals. If Twitter has shown me anything, it is that individuals can have voices to their own surprising audiences amid all of the media chatter. I’m not one of those media people who are scared by what happens when you give EVERYONE a voice. Actually, I really love it.

This post is dedicated to Iowa’s best new food writer and my former multimedia guru Nick Bergus who, like a little bird in my ear, convinced me I had to get on Twitter last March. Thanks, Nick!


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