About Emily
Hi. Welcome to my blog about Salem, OR.
My husband and I moved to Salem in the winter of 2008. We came here with little idea of what the Willamette Valley was really all about, and as a writer, I have made it my job to find out. So what you will find here is the bits and pieces of my discoveries as I pursue work as a magazine writer (when I’m not blogging, I’m cobbling together a non-linear career as a writer, editor, journalist, book reviewer, sometimes translator (German-English) and mythmaker).
These days I am a regular contributor to Salem Monthly, AAA Via, Edible Portland, Publishers Weekly, German Life magazine, and am the books reviewer for Eugene Magazine. You can read some of my clips here. I also teach feature writing at the University of Oregon Department of Journalism and Communication. You might also know me as the President of the Oregon Chapter of the Fulbright Association.
Desperately Seeking Salem is about searching out the glorious, the mesmerizing, the annoying, the curious and the lame in Salem, Oregon. In September 2009, Salem Monthly readers named DSS “Salem’s Best Blog.”
If you want to reach me, please send me an email at emilygrosvenor *at* gmail.com.
Thanks for stopping by.
Emily Grosvenor
Hi there!
I am happy to find your blog via the March Salem Monthly.
I am a native Oregonian, who recently moved to Salem from Colorado (where I went to grad school). I moved to Salem with all prejudices that you heard about upon moving here. (I grew up in Grants Pass, OR (home of Dutch Bros) went to college and worked in Portland for 7 years before going to Colorado and now back to Oregon). I am very motivated to enjoy my time here in Salem. I suggest you go to (and blog about) Word of Mouth Bistro on NE 17th near State. It is new in my neighborhood and I am so excited about a tasty restaurant that “has a soul” in Salem. Breakfast (and coffee) is divine.
Just wait until the farmers markets start up!
And I hope you have done some good wine tasting!
Karen
Karen, that’s a great way to put it, “motivated to enjoy my time here.” As for Word of Mouth, I am SO THERE. The name alone gets my pulse racing. That location is also bike-able for us. Thanks so much!
I also recently discovered your blog, thanks to the Salem Monthly. I was so excited to learn of your existence, and I’m loving your blog.
I grew up in Corvallis before moving to the east coast. Similar to you, I used to live in a sketchy Washington DC neighborhood (Columbia Heights) before moving back to Oregon. Everyone thought I was crazy when I said I was moving to Salem, and sometimes I agree with them. I’ve been here about 2 years now, and even in that span of time, things, especially the food scene, have improved. Like the previous poster mentioned, Word of Mouth is downright incredible. Best weekend breakfasts ever (and really, this town has a LOT of great breakfast options, I can think of at least 4 or 5 good to great places for a weekend breakfast), I haven’t been there for dinner yet. And have you been to La Capitale Brasserie on the corner of State and High? Great food. I’m glad you’ve already discovered Kim Huong’s, they’re one of my favorite places in town.
Anyway, welcome, I’m glad you’re here!
Jenny
Hi Jenny,
We actually went to La Capitale last night — post forthcoming. As for Columbia Heights, have you been back there lately? I was living on Mt. Pleasant Street, the happiest I’ve ever been (no chains, all awesome people except for a neighbor who played his music too loud). These days there is a best buy and a target right on 14th street! all of the commercialism makes it feel a little safer to walk to the metro after midnight, but it’s completely changed the area. I’m not completely against gentrification, I just wish there was a way to do it to maintain some of the things that drew the van guard there in the first place. Thanks for reading the blog and the column and hope to see you around.
I haven’t been back to DC in about 3 years, but I’ve heard from friends about how much the neighborhood has changed. I lived on Park and 11th, about 4 blocks the other way from the metro. I did a bunch of research on gentrification when I was in school in DC, focusing on Columbia Heights and Mt Pleasant. And I agree with you completely, it’s great to hear of the neighborhood improving, it’s only now recovering from the race riots in the 1970s, but it’s a shame that the improvements make the rents and property taxes too high for the original residents to remain.
I hope you had the pomme frites at La Capitale, they’re some of the best french fries I think I’ve EVER had. Can’t wait to hear what you thought!
Welcome to Salem. Say your article in the Salem Monthly.
Ironically, Lancaster, PA is a city not unlike Salem in some ways. The agricultural paper there is the one mostl like, Capital Press Ag Weekly, based here in Salem, where I work.
Added you to my blog list under Salem blogs. I like your “long scathing letters” to corporations. My blog come a bit from the left.
Oh no, don’t tell me that! I love Lancaster, and Lancaster County, but it is much too conservative for me these days. Still, the times must be (insert appropriate Dylan title here) because it had the largest increase in Democratic voters in the country during the last election.
Take heart. I really didn’t meet many people in Lancaster. Largely I was there for sales and travel.
Salem is a friendly town, as long as you ignore the conservatives and other nutria next to the freeway. (Myocaster coypus.)
Oh, and if you hear any stories about Fall City…they are all true. LOL.
(Okay, after this reply I’m all caught up as of today). I noticed in your profile you mentioned mushroom hunting. You might want to try a restaurant in Dayton called the Joel Palmer House. The chef specializes in mushrooms and gathers them all himself, quite the expert. The food is good enough to make you faint, although it’s for special occasions only (fairly expensive) and rich, so you might have to lie down and rest for a while after dinner.
I hope they’re still there and I’m not embarrassing myself; the last time I was there was my birthday in 2006!
My neighbor used to pick mushrooms for them… The JPH is definitely on my list, but we’ll have to be celebrating something special, because I’m getting the 5-course mushroom prix fixe dinner. Also, I wanted to go to the Truffle Festival in Eugene a few weeks ago and couldn’t afford it. Can’t do everything at once, right?
Emily,
Guten tag. Very much enjoyed your column in Salem Monthly, and am enjoying browsing your blog. I learned, for example, that what used to be the Dragonfly and several other things is now Word of Mouth. My wife and I will stop by there next week.
I live in Keizer (a real city but actually a northern appendage of Salem). I’ve been in this area for almost 30 years. I’m a transplant (my roots are in Indiana), former journalist (graduated University of Oregon and worked about 10 years for the Roseburg newspaper) and did a lot of other stuff. Now “retired” but “working” as a professional clown (Baloney), when I can find gigs.
I have mixed feelings about Salem-Keizer. It’s a lot like many other capital cities–lots of bureaucrats and state facilities such as the State Hospital and State Penitentiary that bring good and bad influences. Both communities are slowly changing for the better. It appears from your blog that you’re quickly finding the good places.
I love your youthful, energetic curiosity. Reminds me a little of me back in the day. Journalists are still my favorite people. Keep up the good work.
P.S. It’s Karmann Ghia, not whatever you said in one of your blogs. Not a criticism, but I thought you would like to know.
Whoops! I took Italian too, guess I should have spell-checked that one. Thanks for reading the blog. I have a journalist’s eye in that I can make anything seem interesting (it is!) and a really big heart. So much of the world to love! I would post unhappy stories, but I just haven’t had anything bad happen yet. Also, as I get older, I much prefer the dry wit to the snark. Snark is so overrated.
I’m still figuring out Keizer. We haven’t spent too much time there yet, but I understand the community does have its own identity.
Good luck getting gigs. Pitching as a freelancer can be a real chore, but for some reason I love the process.
I don’t want to be a pest, but it appears that one redirect testimony is permissible.
Keizer. The “founder” actually spelled his name Keizur. Keizer is what I would call a gallimaufry. It’s really a bedroom community built up around River Road, an ugly arterial famous mostly for fast-food places, small businesses and rush-hour-traffic crashes. Local promoters pushed for and got the incorporated city label in 1982, primarily to avoid being annexed to and taxed by Salem. Taxes here are now a skosh less than Salem.
Keizer is the largest city in Oregon without a library, but we are building a new city hall. And we now have Keizer Station, a freeway shopping area with all the predictable big-box stores and fast food. (Salem doesn’t like KS, saying it will hurt downtown businesses.)
There is no “downtown” Keizer, as it didn’t develop like a normal city. However, Keizerians like to refer to the intersection of River and Chemawa roads (Safeway, Roth’s, Walgreens, Shari’s and an equipment rental place) as downtown.
In my opinion (all of this is my opinion), there’s no real reason to come to Keizer if you don’t live here. Two exceptions: 1. Keizer Rapids Park, being developed at the west end of Chemawa. 2. The Old Schoolhouse Heritage building by City Hall on Chemawa just east of Safeway. Has a beautiful art classroom and active Keizer Art Association.
Possibly TMI for you, but I thought that with your curiosity and energy (up at 1 a.m. blogging) you would enjoy.
Thank you, John, for the thoughtful info about Keizer. We tried out a church there while church shopping a few weeks back. I only go into Keizer station for the World Market.
I’m not sure that a grocery store intersection a city, or for that matter, a community makes. But I like the people I have met from Keizer (or who live in Keizer), so I’m sure I’ll have opportunity to go there sometime…
Hi Emily,
I’m enjoying your column in Salem Monthly. I, too, am a freelance writer– corporate copywriting and travel (the latter being my passion). And I’m also a Midwest transplant. My husband I moved to Oregon in 1992 from Cleveland, Ohio so I truly know what it means to leave behind everyone and everything familiar. The best cure for us while trying to make new friends (without kids that’s even tougher than parents who have school stuff in common) was to explore Oregon. With all the natural beauty around here, I now simply cannot imagine living anywhere else. A great many friends and family members come to visit to see all that we brag about. If you’d like some ideas on what to see and do around the Pacific Northwest, please check out my online travel column http://www.examiner.com/x-2310-Portland-Day-Trips-Examiner. There are few articles about Salem, but you might especially like my 7-part series on the Sesquicentennial since it briefly covers all 7 scenic regions of the Beaver State. Don’t miss the Woodburn Tulip Festival this month or the Keizer Iris Festival in May!
Thanks, Denise. Maybe I should write some Salem pieces for the examiner! We actually get out every weekend – we’re real travelers. Haven’t made it too far south yet, though.
Just reading the blog for the first time today, after reading your column in Salem Monthly. I too am a writer, an Oregonian, moved to the East Coast (10 years in D.C.) and then re-located to Salem in search of a more low-key lifestyle. I’m noticing a theme here with other comments…maybe we should start an ex-D.C. support group!
Anyhow, my feeling is that Salem is what you make of it…it’s easy to dis the city (which I’ve noticed that many long-time residents do), but that perspective plays a big role in how you see things. Sometimes I will be walking along, enjoying the lovely gardens and great weather, and think “I am so f***ing lucky to live here” and I can’t remember ever thinking that in D.C. Not to say that I don’t miss all of the wonderful offerings of that fair city (I do!), but that there is something underrated about living a quiet life in a quiet city with uber-potential. Anyhow, I digress. My point is I will continue to visit your blog. Looking forward to hearing about your adventures and sharing in the discoveries along the way.
Thank you, Rachel, what a sweet sentiment. My blog has become the go-to place for newcomers to Salem. For me, that means more friends, more voices, more ideas, better ways to see Salem.
And while I loved living in Mt. Pleasant in D.C., I’m loving Salem too. In different ways. I do not miss the traffic, the attitudes, the pomp, the heat, or the muggings.
What a happy find! I saw your article in the Statesman Journal…
I, too, am a mid-Atlantic transplant…grew up in Maryland, lived all around the beltway but could never keep up with the pace. I still have nostalgic pangs of excellent Chinese, Peruvian and other diverse cuisines, art, theater, etc… My family still lives in and around DC and I miss them too…
I moved out here with my sweet hubby three years ago…on a whim!We had both turned 40 (ish) and weren’t particularly loving our jobs… We had just…had enough of the east coast. So we packed up the u-haul with kitty in tow, left our TV for our house’s new owners and hit the road.
We love living in our downtown bungalow and walking all around. That’s one of the things I like about Salem is it’s scale…I’ve enjoyed your take on Salem and appreciate your openness and humor about it’s “middle child” syndrome when comparing itself to PDX and Eugene.
So, how do I subscribe to your updates and musings? I don’t feel so alone knowing there are others who see the beauty and quirkiness of our fair city!
Thanks for letting me know!
Liz
More soon on this! I’ll have to figure out RSS feeds now that I know there is interest…
P.S., it’s Salem Monthly where my article runs… as far as I know that Statesman hasn’t picked me up yet
P.S. We pretty much did the same thing. Oregon is great for reinvention and goodbyes to all that.
Great!
Yes, indeed it IS the Salem Monthly!
(I’m more “well read” then I thought!)
Liz
No worries. We’re lucky to have more than one print pub in town — the more the merrier.
I echo the others in my delight at finding your column in the Salem Monthly. Although I attended high school in Salem and both my parents and my husband’s parents live here, this was not our first choice as a place to land permanently. However, here we now are, raising our kids, working, playing and trying our darndest to find the upsides of Salem. It’s sometimes a challenge to be a 30-something liberal here. Anyway, I just wanted to tell you how much I enjoyed your article about trying to make friends–how you see someone who seems interesting and would like to introduce yourself and ask them out for coffee but can’t for fear they will think you are a stalker or a weirdo….I laughted out loud at that, because I often feel the same way!! So take heart, great people do exist in this town and you’ll eventually find them. Keep up the great work.
Okay, weird. Since you are now the second Grosvenor in a 400 mile radius, we’re probably related. So welcome to Salem, cousin!
As a transplant from way back there some place several decades ago I learned very quickly the following things about Oregonians (native and transplanted) that may help you in your travels throughout the area. Oregonians:
1) Are desperate to do things that make them feel like they are really, really, cool.
Don’t understand that the corn used to make 25 gallons of ethanol would feed a hungry person for a year.
2) Are in love with the concept that being “different” equates with being “good”.
3) Would rather pay 50% of their salary in state income tax than have a sales tax.
4) Describe themselves as “liberal” but cannot articulate what liberal means.
5) Attach themselves to every snake oil sales pitch that has the word “green” in it without regard to science and history.
6) Express the desire to help the homeless and illegal alien population but isolate and insulate themselves from both by living in gated communities.
7) Think “smart” people make good leaders.
9) Believe that there are so many “super-rich” people that can be taxed, that every conceivable social program is fully funded.
10) Believe the Tooth Fairy is real and universal health care is sustainable.
Salem is a good place to raise a family but most social interaction takes place in people’s homes and yards. If you need entertainment, there’s not much too available.
Wow, someone has a really bitter attitude about liberalism. I really can’t believe you took the time to write out such mean-spirited platitudes.
Hi Emily,
Came across your site when I googled “Lancaster McMansion”.
I’m a Lancaster native, but did two tours of Duty in Portland- Reed undergrad, PSU grad school
Oh, and did I mention half my family lives im Schwabisch Alb/Schwarzwald?
So, naturally I thought I’d drop a line, wish you and your husband well in Salem (only been a few times, why leave Portland?)
I actually grew up in Philadelphia, summers in Lancaster, returned, lived in Clock Towers (old Hamilton Watch factory), but did attend JP McCaskey for a few weeks during a teacher’s strike.
And returning next week, where a friend tells me he’s got PLENTY of Bayerische Hefe Weizen awaiting me, even if I still haven’t gotten him to pronounce “Hefe Weizen” correctly!
Hi Paul! Yes, I get a lot of strange hits. Also, I can see when people google my name, which is troubling (I thought I was the only one!). It does seem like we have a lot of shared interested. Now the question remains: why were you googling Lancaster McMansions….
My mom taught in the Lancaster school distric for 30+ years. And I have toured the clock towers. Sigh. Sometimes I miss home.
Emily,
I’m a planner, and advocate of “smart growth”, which is the official policy of the Lanc Co Planning commission. Someone on the Intel J talkback was dismissing my call for the three Ds- Density, good design, and diversity- in human settlements of any type. And I was trying to find a photo of the typical big tract home that sprouts up on the beloved fields of Lancaster Co.
I truly grow fonder of the city, for all its issues, real and imagined, as well as the countryside. Its typical suburbia, esp when the houses and lots exploded, that I can’t abide.
Every time I would bike thru Laurelhurst, LaddS Addition, any number of inner Portland neighborhood, I would think, who would take Beaverton or Gresham over these walkable, human-scaled and downright Beautiful homes and environs (now, of course, this was BEFORE prices skyrocketed!).
In Lancaster, Grandview Heights is the best example- while not the rowhouse density I grew up with, and thus lacking real walkable/bikeable stuff like in Portland (or just about anywhere in Germany/Europe, for that matter!) still a reasonable Paragon for the suburbs and smaller cities/towns anywhere, really!
I’m currently half way between Cleveland and Columbus, but yearn for a Portland situated right about at The Gap!!
Have you posted photos of your cottage on your site?
Have you ben back to Lancaster recently? The crepes on N Queen are to die for, esp the Thai Peanut Chicken- still, rather be drinking a beer at the Bagdad on Hawthorne after biking up Mt Tabor, or a hike in the Gorge!
Paul
Hello,
I found you blog after I found you on the contributors page of The Iowan. I submitted an article to The Iowan for publication and keep checking the webpage to see if it is there—besides a few poems, it would be my first published article. Anway,now that I am here, I can’t stop reading. I am not from Oregon—never been there—but love your blog. I shall return!
Devy
Hey Emily!
I was thinking that we’re due to work on another food, travel, art or culture story together and also wondering how your new bebe is?! Congrats on becoming a madre.
I meant to write you a THANKS a while back for doing a photo shout out to me over our story on white truffles with Jack for EP.
Let’s reconnect sometime soon and find a way to collaborate again.
Good wishes from Ptown,
Sarah