Archive for the ‘Travel’ Category

Weekend in the Fast Lane

Wednesday, June 17th, 2009

car

What’s the sound of one blog dying for the weekend?

Rattle Rattle Rattle Rattle Rattle Rattle WHOOOSHHHH!

Adam and I were in Park City, UT last weekend for a professional conference. I took this picture of him and some nice other dudes barreling down the 2002 Winter Olympics bobsled track. I had my Canon on the sports setting and didn’t even notice him noticing me until after they were down the hill (in a daytime record 63 seconds). They were flying by  on their way to 60 mph.

My very own cool runner…

The rest of the conference really dragged in comparison.

Exploring contradictions in Mt. Angel

Thursday, May 21st, 2009

AlvarAalto

I have lived in Salem for just shy of six months and I have visited Mt. Angel, the little German-American burg to our northeast, a disproportionate six times — and for no particular reason other than to get away from Salem and to immerse myself in the things I love done right:

Architecture

German-ness

The physical presence of spirituality

Tourism as Religion

On my first visit, after a conversation I had with a novelist at a Willamette Writers meeting, I went in search of the monastery’s Alvar Aalto-designed library. If I had more gas money, more time, or a need to infuse my novel with elements of verisimilitude from pre-Christian Rome, I would most certainly write my book there too. The German-language collection is among the finest and quirkiest I’ve seen in the United States, with volumes on things like German Romantic Love – the kind of love that culminates in a plan for dual suicide that you must carry out yourself when your girlfriend gets cold feet.

But it is the building itself  which draws visitors to, as my fellow blogger Capital Taps said recently (and before I could, you cheeky monkey!) its  “marvel of natural light.”

The building reminds me very much of the Egon Eiermann-designed German Embassy building in Washington, D.C., where I spent my youth writing German news stories for an American public. It has that same sleek, modern, late 1960′s feel, the same adoring attention to the use of natural light, but without the long central gangplank down the middle of the structure that would send diplomats fleeing to their light-swathed offices (to work, of course).

The library, by contrast, sends you mingling among centuries-old volumes of works you are unlikely to encounter anywhere else.

The main library floor is flanked by individual study rooms, which obscure another architectural feat — a view of Mt. Hood from the end of the mountain. Never one to balk at the challenge of a locked door — who knew monks were so proprietary? — I did find one open room and got a chance to view Mr. Hood from the south.

Sadly, the picture didn’t turn out — too much light! But that challenge is now yours to do the same…

The library is currently hosting an exhibition of works by the Valley Calligraphy Guild of Eugene, OR in the front lobby.

Calligraphy

For a hobbyist’s exhibition, it’s strikingly charming, with one work bravely displaying the mixed messages of competing adages in gorgeous, hand-drawn font:

“All things come to those who wait.”

“The Lord helps those who help themselves.”

I think you know which one’s talking about me.

The Blackfish Cafe

Sunday, May 10th, 2009

Blogpics

When we go to a new town, I like to approach strangers and ask them where to eat. Taking our cues from the locals rarely leads us astray — such as our recent trip to Newport, where we discovered the best crab melt I’ve had at a hole-in-the-wall diner.

There’s no central meeting place for strangers in Lincoln City, which is just half a dozen towns that have incorporated themselves under a common name. So we were getting kind of frustrated yesterday when we were driving down the Pacific Highway, trying to tell from the outside of a building where we might like to eat.

Why not just google it ahead of time or check the guidebook, you may ask?

That, my friends, would ruin the adventure. And since I’m a hyper-over-planner the rest of my life, sometimes I need to just head in some general direction and take it from there.

Here’s a true story. I walked up to an older guy near a phone booth at one of the public parking lots near the beach and just put it out there.

Me: Are you from around here?

Dude: Well, I know the area pretty well.

Me: Where do people eat around here?

Dude: I don’t know, people like Mexican, they like Chinese…

Me: No, like are there any little cafes or diners where the locals hang out?

Dude: There’s the Blackfish Cafe down the road, but it’s rather rich for my taste, and pretty expensive.

Me: And that’s where the locals eat?

Dude: Well, a lot of the locals eat at McDonald’s.

And that’s how we ended up eating two fist-sized gourmet Ding-dongs with berry coulis at the Blackfish Cafe in Lincoln City, one of the handful of James Beard-recognized restaurants in Oregon. Our poor server Michael says he has to offer the “homemade ding-dong” about two dozen times a day.

He stuffs it into the middle of his sentence as to draw less attention to it, but you can’t ignore a ding-dong, even if his voice does drop a little when he says it.

The response from diners is  always the same. We look at him, we look at each other, we look back at him, and we order it.

“I’ll take your finest homemade ding-dong.”

Oh, we also had the best fried snapper sandwich of our lives there. But twenty years from now, it’s the ding-dong we’ll still be talking about.

Desperately Seeking Song

Wednesday, April 29th, 2009

overlook

If you want silence and solace, don’t go to Baskett Slough National Wildlife Refuge just half an hour west of Salem. It’s a resting area for Canada geese, and they are some majorly cacophonous squawkers.

That’s actually what I love about them. I love that when I am jogging around my neighborhood, the sound of geese flying above sometimes drowns out the White Stripes on my Ipod shuffle. Theirs is  plaintive cry of existence, and I would happily drive some miles out of town to hike to a lookout and hear their bleats muffled by space and landscape.

Baskett Slough offers just that — a quick hike to a knockout lookout area where the view stretches miles in all directions — across gorgeous Willamette Valley farmland and wetlands, to the mountains, and back to Salem. It’s a perfect afternoon trip from Salem requiring minimum effort and maximum solace of being out in the country.

view

The hike through the woods set on this grassy knoll behind the lookout is a nice contrast — the pleasures of seeing wildlife, especially woodpeckers and other  curiously and endearingly noisy birds up close.

Generally, when I see a brown sign, my heart soars. But we were somewhat flummoxed by this sign at the refuge:

sign
Any ideas on what it could be telling us?  Walk in a square to find the information stand? Here’s where you were expecting to see the trailhead map? I think the message is that the trail you are entering makes a big circle, so have no fear of getting lost. Someone needs to grafitti a big smile on that bobble-headed figure’s face.

Waiting for GoDot on D Street

Thursday, April 16th, 2009

tracks

Something strange happens when people are forced to wait for a train passing through the center of Salem at D Street. They start to go through the seven stages of grief in the Kuebler-Ross grief cycle:

  • Shock or Disbelief - Oh my gosh, a train in the middle of the day!
  • Denial - That is not the no-pass bar dropping right in front of my car.
  • Bargaining - Ok, I’ll wait here, but only as long as it takes for Rusted Root to sing “On My Way” (Seriously, this  happened to me yesterday).
  • Guilt – If only I had gotten here sooner. Twenty seconds would have done it.
  • Anger – God**** M*#$%F^%$#! (pounds fist on steering wheel)
  • Depression – I’m never getting home. This train will never pass. I’m at 80 boxcars and there are 1,254 more. No one loves me.
  • Acceptance and Hope – My, isn’t there gorgeous, inspirational graffiti on these Union Pacific boxcars. Look at what all these weird people are doing as they wait for the train to pass.

I waited for no less than 26 minutes at the D Street railroad crossing yesterday at about 11:30 a.m. By the time the path was clear, the people waiting on both sides of the track had stopped being angry and had started doing really strange things. One kid — obviously just steps from high school, where he was supposed to be — kept looking for a clear path between boxcars when the train started going really slow.

Seriously kids, do not do this. Very dangerous.

One girl, who looked about 15, started spinning around in circles.

The angry people in the car behind me got out and had a conversation.

And the 38 cars waiting on the other side of the tracks? Who knows what they were doing. Within seconds, they had sped across the tracks and were gone.

Keeping up with the Czarnecki's

Tuesday, April 14th, 2009

truffle

Yesterday I tagged along with Oregon’s truffle king Jack Czarnecki, owner and former chef of Dayton’s Joel Palmer House. We headed to a private property about 12 miles west of Dallas, OR on a pristine Oregon day — snow, sleet, rain, and sunshine showing up to the party.

Yesterday also marked the first-ever time that I interviewed a person (Jack) and then saw him interviewed on television — on the Food Network show Will Work for Food starring Adam Gertler.

I can’t say TV really captured the experience of digging in the dirt around Doug Firs for truffles. Like all good treasure hunts, sometimes hours pass between finds. Seeing all that hard work cut and pasted into a 15 minute segment (and one aired alongside a segment about the use of food in horror movies… the horror!) really tends to devalue the process.

My hands aren’t really ready to type the story of my own truffle hunt. In the end, I spent about five hours combing through dirt with a rake to unearth about twelve of these little black truffles and came back covered in mud and with newly discovered back muscles.

I’m exhausted.

But I’ll be blogging about how I cook them all this week on the blog, so stay tuned!

Planes, Trains and Automobiles

Friday, April 3rd, 2009

pdx

My friend Jeff has this theory about planes and other time-altering feats of engineering. He read once that to recover from any type of travel per vehicle — be it planes, trains or automobiles (or hovercraft, for that matter), one must walk the equivalent distance by foot.

By that argument, I would have to walk 2 x 1,950 miles I have traveled this past week to report on a story in Iowa City, home to the U. of Iowa and the Writer’s Workshop.

My flights this morning from Des Moines –> Minneapolis –> Portland proceeded as usual. But since my man was working all day, I decided not to wait 8 hours in Portland for him to drive up to Portland to pick me up.

Instead, I took the direct bus from PDX to Salem.

Yes, dear friends, I wanted to get back to Salem that badly.

Buses and I go way back. Back to the time I hitched a bus from State College, PA to Philadelphia my freshman year in college (my mom yelled “you did what?”).

I don’t harbor the animosity towards bus travel that some do. In fact, I relish the experience.

Even when the guy next to me can’t stop telling me about how much he loves Tiny Toons (and is wearing the T-shirt to prove it). Even when some dude across the aisle is picking his nose and eating it.

Even when it’s the same guy. And the trip is like, 5 hours long.

So wasn’t I thrilled to discover that the bus from PDX (Hut, $33.00) drops at the Red Lion Hotel, not too far from my modest little Salemite cottage.

I finished the last leg of the trip, saddled with too much baggage, catching a whiff of cherry blossoms, tripping over my shoes because I was so exhausted after 14 hours of travel, on foot.

Let's get digital

Tuesday, March 31st, 2009

santoscarweb

Today I went where no Emily has gone before – I interviewed a digital human.

As far as I have been able to determine, there are no digital humans in Salem, Oregon — this one resides in the Midwest.

But I will be back blogging about Salem, and desperately, very soon.

Salem Oregon Must-do list

Monday, March 23rd, 2009

Just created what will soon be my constantly changing Salem Oregon must-do list. Here’s the current one, you’ll find the list on its own page on the right column under the F.A.Q.’s.

blogpics-0161

Top Ten Things to Do in Salem, Oregon

10.  Run, don’t walk past the Oregon State Hospital.

9.  Take in a flick at the Northern Lights Pub Theatre. Assuming they’re not still playing Twilight. (Don’t tell me it’s Theatre Pub. I say if the movie theater is serving beer, it’s going first).

8. Check out some consignment furniture at Encore on Commercial Street SE.

7. Pop in for a spin around the galleries (Tuesday is free) at Willamette University’s Hallie Ford Museum of Art.

6. Chat up the booksellers at the Book Bin or Tea Party Bookshop.

5. Pick a wine off the wall at Morton’s Bistro in West Salem.

4. Stroll among the cherry trees at the State Capitol (they’re almost out!).

3. Chat with Jim Bernau at Willamette Valley Vineyards.

2. Gaze with wonder at how tchochkes can be stylish when grouped by color or theme at Engelberg Antiks.

1. Stop in for a make-your-own cannoli at the Little Cannoli Bakery in the Reed Opera House.

Breitenbush Hot Springs – a hippie trip

Monday, March 23rd, 2009

breitenbush1

Problem: I’m a soakaholic and our house has no bathtub.

Solution: A weekend trip to Breitenbush Hot Springs.

Breitenbush, a hot springs area about 12 miles from Detroit in the central Cascades, has served as a ritual retreat for unknowable centuries. Indians gathered there to fish and soak in the centuries before the area was homesteaded.

It became a private retreat about 50 years ago and maintains this hippie vibe that we often go for while traveling but don’t always practice at home.

It’s basically summer camp for grownups.

Since I met my husband as a camp counselor in my early 20s, I can’t think of anything more fun.

Trip Breakdown:

L. and J. joined us in Salem for strawberry and banana pancakes on Saturday morning. We hit the road for Breitenbush about 10:30 and made it by 12:00 p.m.

We checked in.

office

We ate crunchy hippie food of steamed brown rice, roasted squash, salad, and cheese and broccoli soup.

food

We spent about half an hour in a Turkish bath (steam sauna) built directly over a hot spring.

No pictures of that, you cheeky monkeys, this isn’t that kind of blog.

We dipped for about an hour in a 102 degree hot spring pool.

Three of us continued on to a hotter hot spring, and then finally to the hottest, while I, having already found my just right, dried off and headed to the lodge, where I read The Watchmen and sipped yogi tea for an hour and a half.

We gazed into the Jackson Pollock of stream beds.

streambed

I joined about 23 other people in a cramped but gorgeous room called the Sanctuary for a yoga session far beyond the difficulty offered at my local YMCA. In our last hometown of Iowa City, the Sanctuary was a bar…

We stayed overnight at a Batesian Motel called the Four Seasons.

We breakfasted at a pretty amazing local joint called the Cedars, where the walls were adorned with saw art. As in, art painted on canvases formerly known as saws.

cedars

We played a game called “Going Camping.” L. won after J. fell on the “got sticky fingers, go back five spaces” spot.

goincampin

We drove west into snow for about 30 minutes before discovering that the trail we had hoped to traverse was covered with it.

We got out of the car and walked onto the uncovered bed of Detroit Lake, which appeared to me like the landscape I had pictured while reading Cormac McCarthy’s The Road.

theroad

We headed for the afternoon to Willamette Mission State Park, just north of Salem, where we viewed the ghostly outline of where the mission once stood and stopped to chat with the world’s oldest black cottonwood tree.

mission

Upon our return, we read the Sunday Oregonian, which I enjoyed far less from having been out in the world all weekend.


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