
I’ve written before about my frustrations trying to find good meat in town and was rewarded with insider’s tips on the best places to go for beef, chicken and fish. Thank you readers for that.
But I’m guessing few of you have gone where I went last week — to view the hand-slaughter of about 200 chickens at the Jondle family’s Abundant Life Farm about six miles south of Dallas, OR.
This wasn’t a lifelong dream of mine: the chance to watch a young man slit through a chicken neck as his family waited to process the carcasses for consumption by humans. All I can say is that I have been doing some research for my novel, and I woke up one day with the burning need to know how chickens are killed by hand. The Jondles were kind enough to entertain my request to watch them in action.
You can read about how this works in The Omnivore’s Dilemma of course, or on a gagillion websites such as this one. But you can’t beat your own visceral reaction to seeing it up close, smelling the smells, maybe even getting some floating feathers up your nose in the process.
The Jondles slaughter their birds — about 200 in a batch once every two weeks — in a small, clean outbuilding located at the bottom of their sprawling Dallas pastureland.
First the Jondle sons, accompanied by a few friends, catch all the birds and bring them down in a truck.
Then the family gathers in a circle and prays. All in all, it’s a pretty civilized affair, which each family member specializing in a different part of the process and everyone working hard to keep the chickens moving through the line in what should take about two hours.
One of the Jondle boys sets up a kill rack, a device that allows the chickens to be placed headfirst in a funnel that stabilizes them and exposes their necks.
Then he slits those necks, cutting through the main arteries, and let’s the birds bleed out. The blood flows down an inclined tray into a bucket.
Jondle Son #2 sends the birds through a hot water (140 degree) bath, which loosens their feathers for the next stage, a whirl through an automated chicken plucking machine. If my grandmother were still around I’m sure she would have her heart set on one of these babies, which obviates a clearly onerous task. Jondle Son #2 cuts off the chicken’s remaining head and feet.
Then Mr. Jondle, a former Silicon Valley software engineer, cuts off the chicken’s oil gland, and cuts off the crop (thus making it easier to take out the organs inside).
A team of a neighbor son, a neighbor mother, Mrs. Jondle, and the Jondle’s 9-year-old daughter then finish off the bird by pullingo out the liver and heart for people who like these things, the lungs, and the intestines, hoping all the while that they won’t accidentally squeeze the gal bladeer and send green goo across the room.
Once the stray feather remnants are pulled from the skin, the chickens are sent through two ice-cold baths before being washed, stamped, packaged and frozen.
I made it through about 1.5 hours of watching the Jondles before I started to get a little queasy. By then, I had been splattered with enough blood, feathers and chicken juice that the smell of iron and earth and chicken skin started to overpower the freshness of a gorgeous Oregon day.
Hot, pregnant and covered and chicken = Stamina of a Victorian invalid.
But I’ve got my notes and my pictures and my visceral reactions, and I’m more than confident that I’ll be able to put a good chicken tragedy in my book while doing justice to the beauty of the process.
By the way, Abundant Life Farms once had a stand at the Salem Saturday Market and has tried selling their products at Life Source, but has decided instead to hand-sell their products to a buyer’s club. The family drives to Salem parking lot once every two weeks to drop off the goods. If you’re eating chicken at Morton’s Bistro, you might also be downing a bird that went through the Jondle’s hands.
Nate Rafn over at Living Culture did a nice profile of their work. Check it out.